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Basketry

Coiling is the most forgiving way into basketry: no soaking, no willow, no special tools, and you can stop and start whenever you like. Hemp cord suits it because it holds a tight coil and does not go furry when it gets damp.

How much cord

The question that stops most people beginning. Coiling uses far more cord than it looks like it should.

MakingDiameterCord (2 mm)Hours
Coaster10 cm~15 m1
Small bowl15 cm~40 m2–3
Bread basket24 cm~90 m4–5
Market basket34 cm~200 m8–10
Floor basket45 cm~400 m16–20
Plus stitching thread, roughly a third of the cord length again. Buy one spool more than the table says — dye lots vary and a basket finished in a second batch shows the join.

Coiling, start to finish

Start the centre

Wrap the cord end tightly with thread for a few centimetres, then curl it into a tight spiral and stitch through the middle. The centre is always the fiddliest part; it gets easier immediately after.

Stitch each new round to the last

Lay the cord against the previous round and take a stitch over both every centimetre or so. Even spacing matters more than tight spacing.

Build the base flat

Keep it on the table and keep it flat. A base that starts to cup early gives a basket that leans, and it cannot be corrected later.

Turn the wall up

Start placing each round slightly on top of the last rather than beside it. How sharply you turn decides whether you get a bowl or a bucket.

Add handles as you go

Leave a loop of cord unstitched for a few centimetres and carry on. Handles added afterwards pull out; handles built into the wall never do.

Finish by tapering

Cut the cord end at a long angle over the last 10 cm, so it thins away, and stitch it down tightly. A blunt end leaves a step you will always see.

Why hemp cord

It holds a coil

Stiff enough to keep its shape as you stitch and flexible enough to turn a tight centre. Jute is softer and slumps; cotton is too soft to hold a wall up.

2–3 mm is the usual weight

It does not go furry when wet

A basket that carries vegetables gets damp. Hemp handles that without fuzzing or smelling, which is why it ends up in kitchens and bathrooms.

Dry it standing up

It takes dye

Undyed cord dyed in short lengths gives banded colour as the coil rises. See dyeing — scour it first, like any hemp.

Dye before you coil

What people are selling

Northfield · Lincoln

Three-strand twine, 2 mm

€14 · 200 m
Northfield · Lincoln

Cord, 3 mm, 100 m

€16
Two Rivers · Porto

Dyed cord, madder

€19 · 100 m
Two Rivers · Porto

Stitching thread, waxed

€7
Ines · Porto

Woven market basket

€64
Atelier Nord · Ghent

Bent needles, set of three

€9
Atelier Nord · Ghent

Beginner coiling kit

€34
Maison Verte · Lyon

Willow frame hoops

€12

Common questions

What should I make first?

A coaster. It is an hour, it teaches the centre and the stitch, and it is small enough that a bad one costs nothing. Everybody's first centre is a mess and it does not matter.

My basket leans to one side.

The base was not flat when the wall started, or the stitches are tighter on one side than the other. Both are practice rather than technique, and the second basket is always markedly better than the first.

Can I wash a finished basket?

Wipe it, do not soak it. Hemp is fine wet but a whole basket takes days to dry through and can distort while it does. Standing it somewhere airy is enough for most things.

Do I need a special needle?

A bent tapestry needle makes it far easier and costs very little. A straight one works and makes your hand ache sooner.