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Scalp

A scalp is skin with a hair problem on top of it. That changes almost nothing about what an oil does and everything about how you have to get it there — and it means the useful application is before the shampoo, not after.

Which problem do you have

These get treated as one thing on a shelf and they are three. An oil helps with one of them.

Dry and flaky

Small white flakes, tight feeling, worse in winter and after heat. This is the one hemp oil actually helps — it is barrier dryness on skin that happens to have hair on it.

Greasy and flaky

Larger yellowish flakes, oily roots, often itchy. Usually seborrhoeic rather than dry, and adding oil is at best neutral. This wants an antifungal shampoo and a pharmacist.

Itchy with no flakes

Frequently a reaction to a product rather than a scalp condition. Strip everything back to one plain shampoo for two weeks before adding anything new, including this.

The pre-wash treatment

Oil after washing sits on hair and looks greasy. Oil before washing does the work and leaves with the shampoo. This is the whole method.

A teaspoon, warmed, on a dry scalp

Dry, not damp — the opposite of the rule for body skin, because wet hair stops the oil reaching the scalp at all.

Part the hair and apply to the scalp, not the length

Section by section with fingertips. The point is the skin. Oil on mid-lengths is what makes this look like a bad idea afterwards.

Massage two minutes

Fingertips, not nails. The massage matters as much as the oil for a tight, flaky scalp.

Leave twenty minutes to an hour

Longer is not better and overnight is unnecessary. A shower cap keeps it off the pillow and keeps it warm, which helps.

Shampoo twice, on dry oiled hair

Shampoo first, water second — putting water on first makes the oil far harder to lift. Two short washes beat one long one.

Once a week

More often is not more effective and eventually leaves buildup. Give it a month before judging.

What it does for the hair itself

Very little, and that is worth saying

Hair is not alive. Nothing applied to the length repairs it — oils coat, smooth the cuticle and reduce the friction that causes breakage, which makes hair look and behave better without changing the fibre. Hemp oil does this about as well as any light oil and worse than some heavier ones.

Where it does earn its place on the length is as a tiny amount on the ends of dry or coarse hair, and as a pre-wash barrier that reduces how much water the hair absorbs and swells during washing. Both are real and neither is dramatic.

What people are selling

Two Rivers · Porto

Seed oil, unscented

€18 · 100 ml
Maison Verte · Lyon

Scalp oil, rosemary

€22 · 50 ml
Atelier Nord · Ghent

Shampoo, mild

€16 · 250 ml
Atelier Nord · Ghent

Conditioner

€16 · 250 ml
Northfield · Lincoln

Shampoo bar

€9
Northfield · Lincoln

Hair mask

€24 · 200 ml
Maison Verte · Lyon

Scalp massage brush

€12
Two Rivers · Porto

Serum, ends

€26 · 30 ml

Common questions

Will it make my hair grow?

No, and anything claiming otherwise is overselling. A comfortable, non-inflamed scalp is a better environment for the hair you already grow, which is a real but modest benefit and not the same claim.

My hair was greasy for days afterwards.

Too much oil, or water before shampoo. Half the amount, and shampoo the dry oiled hair directly before wetting it. Two short washes lift it where one long one does not.

Can I leave it overnight?

You can, and there is little evidence it helps beyond about an hour. It does reliably ruin a pillowcase, so if you do, put an old one on.

Is it safe on colour-treated hair?

Yes — it is an oil, not a solvent, and pre-wash oiling can slightly reduce how much colour washes out by limiting how far water swells the hair. Leave a couple of days after colouring before starting.